FUNDING
Impact Innovation Funding
Please note all funding has now been awarded
Scroll down to see awarded projects
The IMPACT+ Network invited academic and industry collaborators to propose innovative research projects to advance knowledge and practice in the measurement of environmental impact across the fashion and textiles sector.
A total of £330,000 has been awarded.
Projects range from 3-12 months.
Supporting research in our Priority Areas.
Priority Areas for the Impact Innovation Funds are a reflection of current gaps in knowledge, unmet industry needs or inadequate datasets. We have funded a range of short to mid-term, cross-disciplinary innovation projects addressing the challenges in measuring environmental impact across the fashion and textiles value chain (materials, manufacturing, consumer use, end-of-life).
Priority Areas:
Beyond Lifecycle Analysis (LCA)
addressing the short-comings of existing metrics, with a specific focus on unmeasured environmental impacts and overlooked phases within the fashion and textile value chain.
Transparent Pathways
enabling inclusive and accessible routes to accurate, reliable, and authentic sources of environmental impact data relating to global production systems at all tiers, specifically in the context of emerging legislation and geographically dispersed supply chains.
Circular Knowledge Systems
forging cross-disciplinary collaborations to enable evidenced-based scientific data to inform future design innovation in materials and processes.
Equitable Partnerships
overcoming perceived knowledge/action gaps through communication efficiency, breaking down relationship barriers across the value chain and empowering stakeholders.
Impact Innovation Fund Projects
Bio-Couture: Empowering Sustainable Fashion and Manufacturing with Bio-based Materials
The fashion industry, a major global polluter, faces environmental challenges from synthetic materials that contribute to chemical waste and microplastic pollution. In response, bio-based materials (Bio-BMs) like bacterial cellulose and mycelium-based leather have gained interest for their sustainability benefits, being renewable and biodegradable. However, a lack of comprehensive frameworks to assess their environmental impact limits their potential. This project aims to bridge that gap by conducting a Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of Bio-BMs, specifically bacterial cellulose leather, to create a detailed sustainability profile. The findings will guide industry stakeholders in adopting Bio-BMs, promoting sustainable practices in the fashion industry.
Priority Area:
Circular Knowledge Systems
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Dr. Yuyuan Shi
Lecturer in Fashion
Northumbria University
Dr Zafar Ahmed – Assistant Professor in Social Work, Education and Community Wellbeing (Northumbria University)
Professor Meng Zhang – Professor in Microbial Biotechnology (Northumbria University)
Professor Martyn Dade-Robertson – Professor of Emerging Technology (Northumbria University)
The development of a comprehensive framework will guide the application of Bio-BMs in the fashion industry. This framework will serve as an exemplary model for integrating next-generation materials into sustainable fashion contexts.
- A comprehensive guide will document specific material properties, fabrication techniques, and design methodologies, providing a valuable reference for future research and industry applications.
- Evidence database: Parameterise the models for the compressive analysis of Bio-BMs application in fashion and inform the development of customise LCA and analysis for the environment impact
- Industry Influence: By sharing our findings with stakeholders via UKTF, we aim to inform and influence the sustainable fashion market, promoting the industry-wide adoption of bio-based materials.
By integrating cross-disciplinary expertise and fostering collaborative innovation, our project will not only advance the application of Bio-BMs in fashion but also create a sustainable foundation for future developments in the field. This will benefit both disciplinary development and the broader goal of sustainable fashion.
Expected start date: 1 November 2024
Expected end date: 1 September 2025
Project duration: 10 months
CRAFTED: Creating Recognition of Artisans’ Footprint and Transforming Environmental Dynamics
Artisans, who make up 20 – 60% of the global fashion workforce, are often overlooked despite their significant contributions, particularly in luxury fashion. This neglect creates a transparency gap in environmental impact reporting and undermines claims of fairness in sustainability transitions. Our project aims to address this by developing a transparency index that evaluates and ranks 50 brands and retailers based on their recognition and management of artisans’ environmental impacts. The index will highlight transparency challenges, showcase good practices, and support a just transition for artisans, ultimately driving industry and policy changes towards more equitable and sustainable fashion practices.
Priority Area:
Transparent Pathways
Dr. Deirdre McKay
Professor of Sustainable Development
Dr Deirdre McKay is a social scientist with a BA in Biology and MA in Environmental Studies, she has expertise in both international development and environmental geography. Deirdre brings extensive experience of third sector collaboration, leading the Keele team and the knowledge exchange partnership with League of Artisans.
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Deirdre McKay
Professor of Sustainable Development
Keele University
Dr Ellie Harrison (Lecturer in Ecology)
Dr Samir Dani (Professor of Operations and Supply Chain Management)
Carry Somers (League of Artisans)
Sol Marinucci (Texile Designer)
Dr Ritu Sethi (Co-founder of League of Artisans)
Robert Meeder,
Heinz-Werner Engel
The team’s approach focuses on evaluating and improving transparency in the environmental impact of artisan production within fashion supply chains, utilising a methodology adapted from the Fashion Transparency Index. The project consists of four main work packages:
Brand Data and Indirect Data: The team will gather and analyse both direct and indirect data on environmental conditions in artisan settings, including water use, waste disposal, and air quality. This involves integrating existing ESG data and using GIS and remote sensing techniques.
Experience: They will conduct interviews with artisans in Delhi and Colombo to obtain direct information on environmental practices. This will be supplemented by blockchain technology for data verification and focus groups with industry experts to validate findings.
Integration and Validation: Multi-actor, multi-criteria analysis (MAMCA) will be employed to develop and validate indicators for the index. The team will review and refine these indicators based on feedback from artisan organizations and extract relevant information from 50 brands’ ESG statements.
Launch and Legacy: The index will be launched with a comprehensive report highlighting transparency gaps and good practices. The launch will engage with various stakeholders through webinars and platforms, aiming to influence industry standards and secure additional funding for further research and capacity-building in artisan networks.
The index is based on the League of Artisans’ (LoA) Dignity of the Hand Manifesto, which emerged from a British Council-funded project involving artisans from seven countries. The CRAFTED project will establish evidence-based practices for artisanal production, and LoA will use the findings to create a Charter of Good Practice to complement the manifesto. LoA plans to use the index as proof of concept to seek further funding for its sustainability. They will integrate the index into fashion sustainability discussions through media strategies, presentations at key events, and collaboration with potential funders to secure ongoing support.
Expected start date: 1st October 2024
Expected end date: 30th September 2025
Project Duration: 12 months
Displacement rate: ensuring consistency and robustness in avoided emission calculations for circular business models
There is growing interest in the environmental impact of circular business models (CBMs) like resale and rental services, but opinions on their benefits remain mixed. To assess these impacts, it’s crucial to understand the “displacement rate,” which measures how much these alternative models prevent the purchase of new items. Quantifying this rate is challenging, as it involves determining if a second-hand purchase or rented item actually replaces a new purchase. Various organisations have tried to measure displacement, but methods have differed. WRAP has developed an impartial methodology to standardise this measurement across CBMs and align businesses around a consistent standard. This project aims to apply this methodology through case studies, promoting consistent and transparent emissions calculations and increasing trust in environmental claims within the sector.
Priority Area:
Beyond Lifecycle Analysis (LCA)
Dr. Sarah Key
Senior Research Analysts
Sarah is a Senior Analyst at WRAP leading the development of WRAPs footprint calculator for Textiles 2030. She is co-Chair of the Metrics Working Group, directing a group of industry experts to ensure robust and accurate measurement of environmental impacts across the agreement.
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Dr. Sarah Key
Senior Research Analyst
WRAP
Nettie Abbott (Analyst, WRAP)
Kyra Elston (Senior Partner Marketing Specialist, WRAP)
Dr Anja Connor-Crabb (Lecturer, University of Leeds)
There is growing interest in the environmental impact of circular business models (CBMs) like resale and rental services, but opinions on their benefits remain mixed. To assess these impacts, it’s crucial to understand the “displacement rate,” which measures how much these alternative models prevent the purchase of new items. Quantifying this rate is challenging, as it involves determining if a second-hand purchase or rented item actually replaces a new purchase. Various organisations have tried to measure displacement, but methods have differed. WRAP has developed an impartial methodology to standardise this measurement across CBMs and align businesses around a consistent standard. This project aims to apply this methodology through case studies, promoting consistent and transparent emissions calculations and increasing trust in environmental claims within the sector.
WRAP, through its Textiles 2030 initiative, is advancing research on the “displacement rate” in circular business models (CBMs) like resale, repair, and rental. WRAP has completed extensive research, including a literature review, pilot survey, cognitive testing and stakeholder consultations, and has recruited four organisations (Vinted, eBay, SOJO and ACS) to participate in further studies. WRAP plans to recruit one more organisationto achieve cross-sectoral representation and insights. It will support these organisations in conducting surveys and will analyse and compile the results into a comprehensive report to determine displacement rates. The findings will be disseminated with a broad range of stakeholders in 2025.
The impact beyond the scope of the project includes the potential opportunity for CBM-specific displacement rates to be included within Textiles 2030 reporting, , increasing the accuracy of results and progress towards the Textiles 2030 targets. Beyond use in Textiles 2030 reporting, we hope that organisations will use the methodology in their own climate and impact reporting so that public claims about the positive impact of CBMs is consistent across different organisations and can be trusted by citizens. This will support the business case for CBMs, demonstrating their key role in meeting climate targets for the textiles sector.
Expected start date: 19th August 2024
Expected end date: 14th March 2025
Project duration: 7 months
UNUSUWUL: creating local value with British wool
The UK wool industry, facing a 53% loss due to declining domestic wool prices, is struggling with low fleece values, leading some farmers to discard their wool. The UNUSUWUL project offers a novel design and manufacturing process that enhances the value of British wool by utilising its natural felting properties. Originally developed with merino wool, the project now focuses on British wool to reduce carbon footprints and cut energy use by simplifying the supply chain. Despite success in small-scale manufacturing, scaling the process is challenged by the lack of specific metrics for UK wool’s environmental, economic, and social impacts. The project aims to establish equitable partnerships between UK wool growers and brands, creating a transparent, high-value chain for underutilised wool through circular knowledge systems.
Priority Area:
Equitable Partnerships
Dr. Veronika Kapsali
Professor of Materials Technology and Design
Veronika’s research is focused on advancing sustainable practices and innovation within the textile and apparel industry. She bridges the gap between fields and encourages collaboration between textile design and STEM disciplines, supporting the development of the UNUSUWUL. Veronika leads the Active Material System Research (AMSR) group, which explores how biology, material engineering, and textile design, can drive innovation in sustainable and circular textile materials and processes.
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Veronika Kapsali
Professor of Material Technology and Design
University of the Arts London
Nicci James (Specialist Knitwear Designer)
The approach involves a series of work packages that include developing a comprehensive stakeholder map, creating robust data collection methodologies, and conducting extensive testing of NBW yarns. By comparing these fibers with standard materials like Merino wool and synthetic blends, the project aims to highlight the benefits of NBW in knitting and felting, ultimately creating high-value textile products. The data collected will inform the development of practical product applications, such as apparel, and contribute to the creation of transparent, evidence-based pathways for sustainable manufacturing.
Long-term, the project seeks to establish equitable partnerships across the textile supply chain, from farmers to brands, by providing a clear, data-driven framework for integrating NBW into large-scale production. This approach aligns with the broader industry shift towards extended manufacturer responsibility and sustainable-by-design strategies, helping to mitigate risks associated with implementing new, eco-friendly manufacturing processes.
The lack of accessible data on UK-grown, breed-specific wool hinders the development of equitable partnerships within the industry. Current standards, like fibre diameter, fail to capture the full potential of native British wool (NBW) for innovative manufacturing processes. This project aims to fill this data gap by evaluating the processability of NBW fibres for knitting and felting, comparing them with widely used fibres like Merino Lambswool and synthetic blends. Initial findings suggest that coarser NBW fibres, though initially seen as undesirable, can yield remarkable results after processing. By creating quantifiable datasets on NBW’s properties and its supply chain, the project seeks to establish transparent, equitable relationships between stakeholders. Demonstrating the UNUSUWUL process in practice will showcase NBW’s value, enable brands to quantify their impact more accurately, and compare local production networks with global ones, highlighting the ecological and economic benefits of using NBW.
Expected start date: 1st October 2024
Expected end date: 30th September 2025
Project duration: 12 months
Scaling Circularity: classifying product inventories to accelerate design for recyclability
Current fibre-to-fibre recycling technologies require high-quality feedstock to be effective. Apparel not designed with recycling in mind results in poor-quality feedstock, making recycling processes more costly and wasteful. The Scaling Circularity project aims to assess the volume of recyclable apparel from UK brands and estimate emissions savings from recycling through existing systems. By analyzing non-recyclable apparel and identifying design improvements, the project will develop a system to guide product design for recyclability. This research will link garment design with recycling capabilities in the UK and EU, promoting circular design practices through workshops and ultimately enhancing textile recycling quality and reducing reliance on virgin resources.
Priority Area:
Circular Knowledge Systems
Dr. Laetitia Forst
Research Associate
Laetitia has experience bridging design and life cycle assessment work, exemplified through the UAL EU Horizon 2020 HEREWEAR project, and reinforced in collaboration with WRAP’s Textile 2030 team. Her background knowledge in textile design for circularity delivers concrete recommendations in the context of design-focused projects.
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Laetitia Forst
Research Associate
University of the Arts London
Kate Goldsworthy, Professor of Circular Design and Innovation (UAL)
Tim Cross, CEO (The Circular Textiles Foundation)
Jenny Valarino, Head of Circular Design (The Circular Textiles Foundation)
Hannah Hamlin, Senior Circular Designer (The Circular Textiles Foundation)
Padouk Fielding, Head of Brand Partnerships (The Circular Textiles Foundation)
This project introduces a collaborative approach to addressing the complexities of recycling in the fashion industry by assembling a multidisciplinary team from academia and industry. The team includes the University of the Arts London’s (UAL) Fashion, Textiles and Technology Institute (FTTI), which combines expertise in sustainable fashion design, data science, and cutting-edge technology, and the Circular Textiles Foundation (CTF), a non-profit focused on circularity and recycling certification. The project aims to work directly with UK apparel brands to develop an inventory analysis tool, analyze product recyclability, and conduct Design for Recyclability workshops. UAL will lead the development of the analysis tool and case studies, while CTF will manage the workshops and brand engagement, leveraging their experience in recycling and industry partnerships to drive the project’s goals.
This project aims to integrate circularity into fashion design and manufacturing by analysing detailed inventory data from brands. It will provide insights into current and potential recycling feedstock, supporting the adoption of circular design on a larger scale. The initiative fosters collaboration among fibre-to-fibre recyclers, garment manufacturers, and brands to advance UK and EU textile recycling by promoting innovative design strategies, enhancing feedstock quality, and supporting recycling technology development. The Circular Textiles Foundation (CTF) stands to benefit commercially through expanded industry networks, increased membership and consultancy opportunities, and the integration of the inventory analysis tool into training programs for brands.
Expected start date: 1st September 2024
Expected end date: 31st August 2025
Project duration: 12 months
We are committed to equality and diversity and actively encouraged applications from all members of the community to our Impact Innovation Fund.