Due to the functional demands of swimwear and its frequent exposure to harsh conditions like chlorine, seawater, and sunlight, durable synthetic materials such as polyester and elastane are favoured. However, these materials rely on finite resources in the form of crude oil and therefore have consequential environmental implications. Moreover, the recyclability of these fabrics is often complicated, if not impossible, since swimwear fabrics are typically made from a blend of different fibres.
Current Efforts for Improving Environmental Impact of Swimwear
While innovation in fabric development is progressing, most efforts have traditionally focused on improving the functionality of synthetic fabrics rather than reducing environmental impact. Action towards improving product sustainability within the swimwear sector is still in its infancy and comes with potential challenges.
This article will focus on three main areas to ensure a comprehensive understanding of the environmental impact of swimwear throughout its life cycle: fabric innovation, durability and longevity, and after-care.
Fabric Innovation
Current Textile Development
Current textile development in the swimwear industry focuses primarily on improving the functionality of fabrics using chemical coatings and finishes. There is little exploration focusing on the use of alternative fibres, such as natural fibres for example, or in the development of alternative finishing processes.
Speedo’s Textile Technology
Major swimwear brands like Speedo have pioneered a lot of textile innovation within the industry, aiming to address both the longevity and functional efficiency of their garments. Speedo’s textile development until recently focused on the use of virgin synthetic fibres, with the 2020 Olympians wearing the new ‘Fastskin LZR Racer Pure Intent’ suits, composed of polyamide and elastane. In anticipation of the 2024 Olympics, Speedo released the ‘LZR Pure Valor 2.0’, which features a coating engineered from Lomoral® Space Tech. This utilises advanced chemistry, chemically covalent bonding with sustainable materials to deliver higher durability, water repellence and comfort. The collaboration between Speedo and Lomoral demonstrates a sustainable solution to previous synthetic based innovations, whilst continuing to uphold the excellence in textile performance that Speedo is known for (Textile Technology, 2024)
CiCLO®
CiCLO® technology is a textile component in the form of an additive combined with polyester and nylon during extrusion at the beginning of the yarn making process. The CiCLO® additive creates biodegradable spots in the plastic matrix, where naturally occurring microbes can break down the materials akin to that seen with natural fibres. This technology is utilized by swimwear brands, including Billabong and DCK boardshorts, to mitigate microfibre pollution from their products and thereby reduce the brands overall environmental impact.
ECONYL®
One popular advancement in textile innovation within swimwear is the use of ECONYL® which is made from regenerated nylon, using waste materials such as industrial plastic and fishing nets. It recycles and regenerates these waste products into new nylon, creating a closed-loop system that uses less water and creates less waste than traditional nylon production methods. The collated waste products are collected, cleaned, shredded, depolymerised to extract nylon, polymerised, transformed into yarn, and then re-commercialised into textile products (Good on you, 2019). ECONYL® is used by other brands such as Finisterre and Stella McCartney in a non-swimwear context to offer performance and reduce environmental impact.
Although recycled synthetics are less detrimental to the environment than virgin synthetic fabrics due to a reduced environmental impact within production, fibre fragmentation caused by friction during wear and washing is still a concern for all textiles, whether virgin or recycled (The Microfibre Consortium, 2023). Additionally, there is evidence to suggest that using less detergent, increasing the amount of washing in one load (Hazlehurst et al., 2023) can significantly reduce microfibre release. Research has also found washing at lower temperatures may help to reduce the release of microfibres during laundering (Dinesh Parida et al., 2024) although there is conflicting evidence in this area.
Durability & Longevity
Methods for Improving Durability
Designing for durability involves using quality fabrics and a user-centred approach to create timeless pieces that enable garment repair. Extending the lifespan of a product is one of the most effective strategies for reducing environmental impact. Factors to consider include improving durability by enhancing quality, designing for emotional connection to increase product satisfaction, and customization (Laitala and Boks, 2012). Durability is not just the strength of a fabric or its ability to withstand use and washing practices; it also includes its longevity and resistance to environmental factors.
The Complexities of Fabric Selection
Fabric choice is a difficult consideration in swimwear design due to the required performance and functionality. Synthetic fibres are often seen as an unsustainable choice due to the textile origins and communication being centred around the binary natural vs. synthetic messaging. However, it is essential to consider a garment’s overall impact through the whole product life-cycle, moving beyond souring alone. While it is true that natural polymers are more biodegradable than synthetic polymers, modifications to some natural fibres, which enhance their suitability for textile applications (common in swimwear design) in fact alter their polymeric structure, resulting in a reduction in biodegradation rates (Stanton et al., 2024).
Durability is a critical consideration for swimwear because it is frequently exposed to sunlight and chlorine, which degrade fabrics quickly (Goodwin, 2018). A study testing swimwear degradation (Epps, 1987) suggested that even synthetic fabrics like Nylon and Spandex do not have much resistance against sunlight, chlorine, and seawater. Additionally, if a garments durability and therefore life-span is increased with the use of synthetic fibres, it may be a more sustainable option than producing natural fibre swimwear with reduced functionality and longevity.
Difficulties with Fabric Recycling
Another issue with the reliance of synthetic fabrics is the prevention of recycling as an end-of-life option. Many fabrics used within swimwear combine blends of fibre types which can be difficult to separate once combined during construction. There have been attempts to separate multi-materials through chemical recycling routes, yet the recovery has still been limited to cellulose fibre-based blends (Dissanayake & Weerasinghe, 2021). Moreover, current recycling infrastructure cannot keep up with consumption and disposal rates experienced in the fashion industry. Textile recycling remains limited due to the lack of cost-effective technologies that can operate at the required scale.
After-care
As sustainability becomes an increased priority for many stakeholders, brands are focusing on informing consumers about the after-care of clothing (Brown, 2019) to help reduce environmental impact. However, there is much confusion about use and care practices, with care labels often utilised to protect brand reputation rather than being used to inform consumers (Webb, 2020). Brands like Patagonia and Finisterre lead the way in providing extensive care guides to help consumers reduce their environmental impact and extend garment longevity. The information available on their website details laundering, stain removal guides and fabric care, categorised by each individual fabric they sell (Patagonia, 2021).
Methods for improving washing habits
Most information provided on the care of swimwear products is available through informal, online resources such as blogs. For example, Ness Swimwear provides detailed care instructions for competition swimwear, and Simply Swim offers a simple guide for washing and maintenance for swimwear through their blog page. Simply swim suggest you rinse your entire swim gear with clean, cool water to remove chlorine, pool chemicals, seawater and sweat, which can cause fabric degradation. They also highlight that hand-washing with gentle soap is best, avoiding the use of harsh detergents.
This level of detail however is unusual, with a need for brands to provide better and more specific after-care information as the norm. Current industry strategies often lack post-purchase care details, possibly because business models focus on the quantity of garments sold rather than consumer loyalty. Brands must take responsibility for providing this information to improve durability, longevity and lifespan of garments.
Stakeholder Responsibilities for Reducing the Environmental Impact of Swimwear
In conclusion, improving the sustainability of swimwear requires the consideration of the entire life cycle, from materiality right through to consumer use and disposal. Key factors to be considered across the value chain include fabric innovation, durability and longevity, and after-care.
Recognising the individual considerations for performance garments such as swimwear is critical in moving towards circularity targets within the wider fashion industry. Complexities around fabric selection, care practices and end-of-life choices require a good level of knowledge from multiple stakeholders including industry professionals and consumers.
Investment in the development of more durable, functional and sustainable fabrics remains critical. Improved communication in post-purchase care is a key responsibility of brands and retailers at the point of sale, helping to inform consumers more specifically on the products they sell. Additionally, consumers must also take an element of responsibility, educating themselves on practices within their control, such as washing and maintenance.
Written by Bridget Upton